Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for PGA2311 Stero Volume Preamp Remote Control Preamplifier Board with LCD for DIY at the best online prices at. Shopping for Cheap Pre-amplifier Board at Breeze Audio Store and more from 6j1 tube,tube preamplifier,headphone amp board,remote volume control,volume control,remote volume on Aliexpress.com,the Leading Trading Marketplace from China. PGA2311 3 Channel Volume Remote Preamplifier Kit for. US $32 / piece.
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My stereo receiver/amp was dying, and I decided to replace it with a compact T-class amplifier. However, none of the ones on the market had multiple switchable inputs or a volume remote. Fortunately, looking around I found quite a few eBay sellers who were selling PGA2311-based volume control and input switchers for pretty cheap in the form of a pre-assembled modular kit. However, none of them were complete with all the required parts, and the enclosures available for this kit were both ridiculously expensive (as much as the kit itself) and, frankly, ugly.
So I designed my own enclosure, designed to be printed in whatever color combinations you want. I went with a 'creamsicle' theme.
Paired with the amplifier it sounds fantastic. And now I have way more space for records, too!
Printer Brand:
Printer:
Rafts:
Supports:
No
Resolution:
Infill:
20%
Notes:
Because of the large footprint this needs a larger printer such as a Makerbot, Prusa i3, Ultimaker, etc.
I printed using PLA.
Other parts you will need to complete the build
- A center-tap step-down transformer (I used a 110/220 -> ±6VAC, with the mains side wired in parallel for 110)
- Mounting screws/standoffs (I bought this kit although all you really need is 4x 5mm and 4x 11mm standoffs, 8 nuts, and 10 screws - 8 for the PCBs and 2 for the transformer)
- Two RCA audio jacks and an appropriate connector for the board (my kit used a JST XH 2.5-3pin, yours may be different)
- An ungrounded mains power plug and appropriate cord (this case is sized for two prongs although modifying it for a three-prong plug should be straightforward)
Post-printing instructions
- Solder the mains rails of the transformer to the power plug, as appropriate to your power configuration; don't forget to shrink-wrap the solder joints!
- Fit the power plug into the appropriate opening in the top shell
- Attach the 5mm standoffs to the inside of the bottom shell, and screw on some nuts on the outside
- Mount the RCA jacks in the bottom shell, and solder the connector to them as appropriate (my board was left-common-right); since mine was a 3-wire connector I had to splice on some wire to put the common to the ground sleeve on both RCA jacks, and for safety I also shrinkwrapped that join
- Attach the transformer's step-down rails to the power connector on the preamp PCB, and screw the transformer down to the case bottom
- Attach the RCA jacks to the output connector on the main PCB, and screw the PCB down to the standoffs
- Attach the 11mm standoffs to the front of the display PCB, and adjust the legs of the IR sensor until it lines up with the sensor hole when the standoffs are flush with the inside of the front of the bottom case
- Mount the volume/selector knob to the front panel on the bottom case
- Attach the main PCB to the standoffs
- Snap the top case in place (be careful to manipulate the cables so that they don't press against the heat sinks or get kinked or whatever) and then screw in the top screws for the display PCB
I used OpenSCAD, and to make my life easier I modeled it in several modules so that I could adjust things and use CSG operations on them to make them automatically update everything. See the .scad file for more information!
The knob is a modified version of my 16mm control knob, done by scaling the knob body by 1.5x in X and Y, and disabling the arrow marker on the base (as the control knob on this preamp does not have a stop position). You can use any 6mm shaft knob that you like, though.
Anyway the actual design process involved a lot of test fitting and mistake making. In fact the version that I 'finished' only has the left screws on the front panel, as the right holes were 2mm off! I also didn't put enough clearance for the power jack's latch tab. These problems have been corrected in the files uploaded here, however. Someday if I feel like burning another 400 grams of PLA and 12 hours of print time I may fix this.